by Nathan Yokey
A curling wall of teal wraps around her
and she feels each drop of spray
as she glides on her first wave.
A smooth euphoric stroke
of board and sea comes to an end,
the white water crests
and crashes. And she’s spit out the other side.
She turns back toward the open ocean, hoping
to paddle right back
to that first perfect swell.
Beachgoers watch knowing well
each wave will be smaller than the last.
Her board chips and cracks as she rides,
the tides take her in and out again,
and again searching
for that first perfect wave.